How to Replace a Worn Out Bicycle Rim

How to Replace a Worn Out Bicycle Rim - Intro

Many bike come with rim brakes, and whilst cycling in clean conditions will result in very long rim life, muddy or dustry conditions can lead to rims becoming worn out. Frequently off road use with rim brakes may wear out a rim in less than a year, for most though a rim will last 2 or 3 years.

Many rim nowadays have a wear indicator, a small grove or channel that run around the rim, if this is no longer visable, then chances are you will need to replace your worn out rim.

How to Replace a Worn Out Bicycle Rim - ERD

To make things easier for yourself and to avoid having to replace spokes you will need to buy a replacement rim which is the same size (or netter still buy the same rim make and model). The most important measurement is the ERD (Effective Rim Diameter). To find the ERD of you rim simple google its make and model with "ERD" after the search term. For example "Mavic EX721 ERD". And hopefully you will find out that way. Rememebr rims can come in 20", 26", 29" sizes, so be sure you are looking at the right size.

If you can not find a measurement on the web then take a tape measure and measure the maximum internal diameter of the rim and add about 4mm. This does not always give a very accurate measurement but I have done this 2 or 3 times with no problems.

So you have found your ERD, now look for a rim with a similar ERD, I replaced a factory stock alloy rim (ERD 551) with a Sun Rhyno Lite XL Rim (ERD 544), so you can go 3, 4 or 5 mm out, and still be OK.

How to Replace a Worn Out Bicycle Rim - Replace

I leant this method from a book a had a few year ago, and it a excellent way to replace a rim, as there is no need to worry about spoke lacing errors (putting spoke in the wrong hole).

First off line up the holes where the inner tube valve pokes through. Make sure to have some tape or zip ties handy.

Next fasten the rims together using some zip ties or tape. 3 points around the rim is normally enough. Then as in the above picture start to swap the spokes from the old rim to the new rim.

Take the top spoke from each crossed pair and move it upwards to the new rim, work around the wheel moving up all of the top spokes on that side on to the new rim. Do up the nipples so 3 threads are showing, you need to leave them a bit lose loose, especially on a rear wheel because other wise the "dish" will not form properly.

After you have moved all of the top spokes on one side of the rim, flip the whole lot over and do the same to the top spokes on the other side. Then repeat this process for all of the lower spokes, and hey presto, all of the spokes should be in the new rim, and you can detach the old rim.

Now go around and tighten the nipples so no threads are showing. No head for the grage and put the wheel in the bike.

How to Replace a Worn Out Bicycle Rim - Truing and Tensioning

With the wheel in the bike (vertical drop out preferable here) measure the distance from the braking surface to the bike frame, do this on both sides. You will need to keep doing this during gradually tightening the spokes to make sure the wheel is centred in the frame.

Spin the wheel in the frame it will probably wobble all over the place. At this stage you can gauge the wobble by eye. But later on you may wish to place something next to the rim (zip tie or rim brake) so as to gauge the wobble more accurately.

STEP 1 

If it wobbles to the left tighten a right hand spoke, and vis versa. Just 1/2 a turn at a time, if its a big wobble tighten 2 or 3 spokes on the same side in the area of that wobble. Do this until the wheel is fairly straight with perhaps 5mm - 10mm of wobble in either direction.

STEP 2

Then start to increase the spoke tension. Tighten ALL of the spokes half turn working around from the valve hole. You do not have to start at the valve hole, but this makes it a lot easier, as it acts as a point of reference.If at this points some spokes seem at lot tighter than other then don't tighten them.

Keep repeating the steps 1 and 2 left until the wheel  solid and all of the spokes are firmly tight. You can purchase a spoke tensioner all I have never used one.

BIG GAP ON LEFT - TIGHTEN LEFT HAND SPOKES

TOO CLOSE - TIGHTEN RIGHT HAND NIPPLE

WELL DONE ME - JUST RIGHT

It is important to realise that at any point you feel things are not going well, just slacken off all the spokes to 3 threads showing and start again. The only game killer is if you over tighten a spokes and strip the thread.

For you first go choose a strong rim, I would assume these will account for you error better than a weaker rim.

Rims vary in width up to about 30mm is OK for use with rim brakes, but you may struggle to adjust them nicely with wider rims.

Putting a little lubricant on each spoke thread prior to tensioning makes thing nicer.

Just have a go it is very satisfying, a cheap rim might only cost £10 / $20, so if you mess it up no biggy.

A failed rear wheel (never had a wheel fail on me) I would imagine would be less damaging to you body than a front one, so start on a rear wheel perhaps.

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Kingston DT108 Memory Stick Review

Kingston DT108 Memory Stick Review - Intro

I am no computer boffin, so I suppose the main purpose of this review is to say that this USB memerory stick from kingston is OK to use, if a little fiddly, and seems to work fine. Now for some pictures . .

Kingston DT108 Memory Stick Review - Close Up Pictures

Small and Secure when Folded

Kingston DT108 Memory Stick Review - Conclusion

A bit fiddly to open but very workable, and small the alloy casing looks like it will last perhaps good for on a key ring or similar.

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Michelin C6 Inner Tube Review

Michelin C6 Inner Tube Review - Intro

A review for an inner tube. Don't be daft. Well it is worth saying that these tube are very much worth getting if you are running fat tires. On swapping from 2.0" Schwalbe Big Apples (with Kevlar Guard), to 2.35" Schwalbe Big Apple (with Race Guard), I immediately began getting punctures, I put this down to race guard being worse than kevlar guard, but I think it was because I was using tubes designed for narrower tires.

Since fitting these tires 3 months ago I have not had one puncture despite lots of cycling over hedge trimming from hawthorn and blackthorn bushes. This is unavoidable where I live owing to the country / green lane riding I often do, and the use of mechanised hedge trimmers which splinter wood fragments all over the road.

Michelin C6 Inner Tube Review -In and Out of the Box

The tubes are noticeably heavy than any other I have owned, but I expected this, I am not concerned about the weight of my bike, I just want it to work every time I get on it. These tires are designed for use with up to 2.8" tires and so at 2.35" my Big Apples were at the lower end of the width spectrum.

Handy Graph Printed on Box.

Packet

Michelin C6 Inner Tube Review - Verdict

If you are running wider tires, then really you should run the correct tubes. These tubes would be a good choice as far as I am concerned.

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Schwalbe Citizen Tire Review

Schwalbe Citizen Tire Review 

These are a fairly low cost of tires that Schwalbe make in a vast array of colours and sizes, this review relates to the 20 x 1.5" variety which went on my daughter bike, but could go on a folding bike just as well.

All schwalbe tires are really good quality this must be the 6 - 7 th type of schwalbe tire I have owned and they seem very good.

They are a nearly slick tire with a uniterupted solid band run around the centre line, which means they should roll well.

I'll leave you with some pictures.

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Selle Royal Moody Saddle Review

Selle Royal Moody Saddle Review - Intro

Springy saddles are the best. Why go without? My last spring saddle was a £7 ofering from ebay which had lasted 2 or 3 years, so this time I thought I would splash out big time (£20) on a better quality saddle.

I have a brooks B67 on my main bike is is far superior to this saddle, it is also 3 times the price. I have heard of selle royal as a make, so that is why I went for this saddle, it was the cheapest one I could find, with proper springs from a known manufacturer.

Selle Royal Moody Saddle Review - Looks

Not tooooo bad . . . . 

A wide nose.

Metal is coated.

Big Springs & Saddle Bag Hoops

Branding

View from Top (Wide Nose)

Selle Royal Moody Saddle Review - Build Quality

This is a very solidly built saddle, its all glued together so don't expect to be able to repair it is it does brake. The metal work on the underside is coated with a tough black substance that looks as though it will last. Its a good bit of kit.

Selle Royal Moody Saddle Review - Comfort

The vinyl cover is quiet sticky against fabrics etc. so 7 out of ten there, the squashiness is just right 9 out of ten, but the let down is the wide nose which does not add to comfort.

A 1 hour ride on this saddle will leave be glad to get off, although not saddle sore.

Selle Royal Moody Saddle Review - Conclusion

This is a fine saddle for the price, although I would not whole heartedly recommend this one  becuase of the wide nose (and that just may be a personal thing) I would be keen to try some other selle royal saddles to see if they suited me better based on the excellent build quality of this saddle.

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Schwalbe Tour Plus Tire Review

SchwalbeTour Plus Tire Review - Intro

These tires are very similar to Schwalbe Landcruiser tires and at around half the price you should probably buy the land cruisers. However, being a bit of a tart I went for these chunkier tires, which appear to have a deeper tread, and be generally more knobbly.

They have a solid centre tread that offers low rolling resistance on paved surfaces, and then knobbly bits  for mud and such on the edges.

Schwalbe Tour Plus Tire Review - Puncture Protection

On most schwalbe tires "plus" means the the tire has a puncture protection band of some sort, which would be around 3mm or 5mm of green gaurd latex or 5mm of there smart gaurd.

These Tour Plus tires have the standard have the standard natural rubber protection belt, which I have found to be very effective on these and other tires. Having said that I am not sure why the word plus is on these tires.

Schwalbe Tour Plus Tire Review - In Use

Nice and quiet and roll really nicely. The 2" ones just fit in side my mudguards, they also come in 1.75".

Schwalbe Tour Plus Tire Review - Pictures

Schwalbe Tour Plus Tire Review - Conclusion

The lack of kevlar guard which would be available on a tire of this price else where in the schwalbe range, is of little concern. These are very puncture resistant tires.

However, why spend £20 on a Tour Plus when £12 on a Land Cruiser will do the same job? Maybe because they look a bit cooler. . . . . . .

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How Old / Dating / Finding Out Age of an AYA Shotgun

How Old / Dating / Finding Out Age of an AYA Shotgun - Into

AYA is a Spanish Gun Maker, that has produce hundreds of thousands of guns since 1945. If you are lucky enough to own one then you can use the serial number printed on the gun to determine the age. 

How Old / Dating / Finding Out Age of an AYA Shotgun - Guns Up Until 1995

If you own an AYA Yeoman (Side by Side), AYA No.1, AYA No.2, AYA No.3 or AYA No.4. Then you can use the bewlow chart to determine the age.

1945 to 1948 — 0001 to 19,999
1949 to 1954 — 20,000 to 71,999
1955 to 1959 — 72,000 to 115,286
1960 to 1965 — 115,287 to 222,508
1966 to 1971 — 222,509 to 378,548
1972 to 1977 — 378,549 to 481,401
1978 to 1983 — 481,402 to 576,551
1984 to 1987 — 576,553 to 599,999
1988 to 1993 — 600,000 to 602,642
1994 — 602,423 to 602,642

How Old / Dating / Finding Out Age of an AYA Shotgun - Guns After 1995

After 1995 AYA swirched to the below serial number system, which is easier to decifier.

1995 — 16-03-001-95 to 16-03-800-95
1996 — 16-03-001-96 to 16-03-755-96
1997 — 16-03-001-97 to 16-03-642-97
1998 — 16-03-001-98 to 16-03-677-98
1999 — 16-03-001-99 to 16-03-719-99
2000 — 16-03-001-00 to 16-03-758-00
2001 — 16-03-001-01 to 16-03-645-01
2002 — 16-03-001-02 to 16-03-645-02
2003 — 16-03-001-03 to 16-03-781-03
2004 — 16-03-001-04 to 16-03-703-04
2005 — 16-03-001-05 to 16-03-652-05
2006 — 16-03-001-06 to 16-03-750-06

How Old / Dating / Finding Out Age of an AYA Shotgun - Conclusion

Happy shooting.

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