Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets

1 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - Intro

The 1 1/8" headtube has been a constant in my life for the last several years, and I have enjoyed that constancy. Unfortunately, some clever people have decided we all now need a 44m headtube, which is bigger than the "old school" 1 1/8" headtube. The redeeming feature of the 44mm headtube is that it will accept 1 1/8" straight steerer forks, and 1 1/2" taper forks. Provided you choose the correct headset. So:

Good News - You forks will 95% likely fit.

Bad News - Choosing the Headset will be tricky.

Skip the Waffle? Scroll down to Sections 5 and 6. 

2 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - Sheldon Brown

First stop of information is Sheldon Brown's excellent website. But when you consider the variety of 44mm headsets for sale on the internet, the below list of just 2 options seems a little short.

Even Sheldon does not have all the answers. . . . 

3 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - The 44mm Family

The frame I was upgrading to, said is requires a "ZS44 Semi Integrated". A quick search for this term will bring up a selection of suitable headsets, however I was still curious as to what is a "ZS44". I came across a very handy PDF published by problem solvers:

44mm EC or ZS? - What is that?

The above paired letters EC or ZS may precede the "44" in any 44m headset, and this relates to whether the headset will have:

• External Cups (EC) - Like most Older Headsets
• Zero Stack (ZS) - Think trendy.

The important difference from here on in is that the lower headset can be designed for:

• 1 1/8" - For the upper cups.
• 11/8" OR 1 1/2" for the lower cups. To allows for 1.5" taper on modern forks.

4 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - EC or ZS

ZS or Zero Stock will normally be for the upper / top or the lower / bottom of the headset.

Whilst the EC or External cup is generally only used on the bottom.

5 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - For Straight 1 1/8" (1.125") Steerer

Choose the following:

ZS44/28.6 - For the top.

ZS44/30 or EC44/30 for the bottom. (30 relates to the 30mm crown race).

A note: The EC bottom cup set up will add about 10mm in height to the front of the bike. This may result in a "slacker" ride, and can be useful to make up height if swapping from high travel suspension forks to rigid forks. 

6 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - For Tapered 1 1/2" (1.5") Steerer

Choose the following:

ZS44/28.6 - For the top.

EC44/40 for the bottom. (40 relates to the 40mm crown race).

7 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - Conclusions 

The 44mm headset is here to stay, as it allows the use of both straight and tapered steerers. However, you will need to spend a bit more time thinking about what combination of headset parts you need.

Many shops now supply 44mm headset parts on a mix and match basis, so you will need to know more than just the one number. 

The flip side of this added complication is that if you buy a frame with a 44mm headset, you can run pretty much any fork in it. . .  .for the time being. . . . .

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Build a BMX EBike

Build a BMX EBike  - Intro

If you are looking for a cheap bike to convert in to an ebike, then a BMX can make a good option. They are tough, small and soon fall out of favor with maturing kids, meaning then can be picked up very cheaply on ebay, and small ads.

Perhaps the biggest advantage is the small wheels, which on a ebike means greater torque (for a lower speed) for a motor of a given power.

BMX Ebike - Quirky . . . 

This makes them ideal for modifying for BMX cargo bike applications.

Build a BMX EBike  - Ebike Kit

Order this first as delivery can be slow.

The cheapest way to get the motor throttle and controller is to order it directly from china. This could cost as little at £150 / $250 with postage.

If you live in a flat area go for a direct drive hub motor, or geared in a hilly area. Choose a power level that is legal (for road use) or to suite your application. Choose upwards of 750w from off-road use.

My bike (orange) uses a MY1020Z motor, a chain drive option on the front wheel. A hub motor would be a better idea.

Build a BMX EBike  - Batteries

Lead Acid are a cheap option, but they are heavy and short lived. Lithium are expensive. Battery choice comes down to budget. Buy what you can afford. Battery voltage should match your motor / controller voltage.

Build a BMX EBike  - Mounting the Battery

Finding a spot for the battery is tricky. BMX frames are small, and finding spot that will not result in problems is . . . .tricky.

Ebike BMX - Battery Mount Options - 2016

"Perfected" - 2018

Rear Mounted 

If you mount the battery at the rear, it will have to be thin and long in shape, so as to sit between your heels. If the battery is wide and square it will have to be set very far back, other wise your heels will hit the battery when you pedal.

Mount High at Rear to Avoid Heel Strike

Front Mounted

The few BMX ebikes which you see on the web, typically have the batteries mounted towards the front of the top tube. As you can see below I have welded a "basket" to put my bulky battery in. But you could use webbing pouches, or for light lipo (lithium polymer) packs, even duct tape can be used!

A lead acid set up, using a none welded bracket.

To be sure my choice would work I taped a cardboard box of a similar size in to position and cycled around to see if it got in the way.

Build a BMX EBike - Comfort

For comfort I would suggest fitting a maximum length seat post (400mm) if you are reasonably tall, and raising the handle bar height as tall as possible. I welded extra length in to mine, but you could fit some "chopper" handle bars for the same effect.

High Chopper Handlebars - Can increase comfort.

Build a BMX EBike - Tires

You will get more range from your battery using smooth tires. Knobbly tires on road being the worst option. If you are using the bike for practical reasons, why not install some tire slime / sealant so you won't get punctures.

Build a BMX EBike -  Limitations

If your are keeping pedal power just for the sake of legality, then a BMX is a good choice for the above mentioned reasons, but if you intended to do a lot of pedaling or need gears then opt for another type of bike.

Carrying stuff in panniers etc. is also tricky. Heel strike at the rear of the bike being a real problem. A saddle mounted bag might be an option for small items.

The main problem with this design is the lack of weight on the front wheel. This if ine over flat ground but a gravel uphill section will cause problems.

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Notes on MY1020Z Motor

Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Intro

This is a fairly inexpensive geared motor made in china. It can be run at least up to 48v. I have tried 48v, and also 24v.

The MY1020 is a ungeared version of this motor, whilst the MT1020"Z" has reduction gearing.

Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Controllers

Yiyun Controller I have found to be good, very simple and reliable. I have used 350w (24v), 500w (24v) and a 800W (48v) variants of this with the MY1020Z.

MY1020 Mounted on Cargo Trike

MY1020 - Mounted in front wheel of cargo bike.

Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Performance

The MY1020Z is sold advertised at wattages ranging from 450w to 600W, it will take a lot more wattage than this. My MY1020Z has spent its life driving a front wheel driven 20" wheel ebike. At 24v 500W this will pull bike a rider up a steep hill at around 7 mph, but owing to a reduction in revs, the engine heats up. Some pedalling is required.

This was achieved with further reduction gearing with the 11 tooth sprockets linked with a 24 tooth freewheel.

This 11 to 24 tooth reduction was also used with the same setup, but with 48V 800W controller, this delivered much speed with little increase in torque.

The above setup would be useful in flat areas of the USA, where this wattage is just about legal. But in the UK, it would be advisable to lower max speed to 15 miles per hour.

This would require an 11 to 48 tooth reduction, to give a 15 mph approc top speed.

Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Chain Gauge

The M1020Z comes supplied with a large gauge sprocket, commonly used on small scooters etc. But sprockets for bicycle chain can be purchased from TNC Scooters.

Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Alternatives

For a more refined, efficient and altogether better choice I would recommend and Bafang BPM 500W.

Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Conclusions

Working in it favour the MY1020Z is a simple motor that is easy to wire, and provides good level of power if used with the right controller and battery. Owing to the fact that it powers a chain (rather than the wheel directly like a hub motor) this gives freedom to choose gearing. 

However, it is rather heavy. You will probably need to be able to weld in order to fit this to a bike, as it will require a sturdy mounting point. Its size on a bicycle will make it stick out of the side considerably. 

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Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review

Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review - Intro

I have a massive / huge / disproportionately large head, and finding a cycle helmet (or any type of hat) that fits on this engorged melon has always been a problem.

The Bern Morrison advertised fitting a head circumference up to 63.5cm which is a tiny bit smaller than my dome, but it was the biggest I could find. If you know of nay bigger helmets please leave a comment.

Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review - Style

The helmet is a kind of mountain bikers, rough stuff tourer helmet. It has excellent ventilation holes, which add to the look, and keep the helmet fairly light.It sits quite low on the head, which I would consider a bonus. Here compared to a skate helmet which sits so low as to cover the eye brows.

Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review - Fit

Fit can be adjusted using the adjustment screw at the rear of helmet, although in my case I undid this all the way. The system seems to work well though, and grips the head well, when used.

The "clicks" or increments on the screw I guess stop it coming undone, but they might be considered a little large, and do not allow for VERY fine adjustment, if you were being fussy.

Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review - More Pictures

Rest fo pictures not used thus far:

Label show size, and measurements etc.

Visor helmet interface

View from Front

View from top / rear

View from top / front

View from Rear

Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review - Conclusions

The Bern Morrison is a very high quality helmet, it is not super light, and I think is designed for rugged, and constant use. The style is futuristic, and I very much like it is every way except. . . .my swollen shill has defeated yet another hat, it is just too small!

I would say they are sized a little on the small side. My head is 62cm circumfrance when measured with a builder tape measure. So this hat should fit, but it is tight.

Bern - Official Blurb

Bern’s premium cross-over helmet, the Morrison is equally at home in the urban jungle and on the trails. A hard visor, ample venting, and premium Boa adjustment system (new for 2016) make this lid stand out both functionally and stylistically. 

The 2016 Morrison features our new Zipmold+ and Boa retention system. Zipmold+ is our proprietary liquid foam construction that is thinner, lighter, and stronger than traditional EPS construction. This allows for certified and safe helmets with an ultra-low profile and fit. Designed with 16 vents there is more than twice as much airflow than Bern’s other leading bike models to keep one’s head cooler on those warmer summer days. The performance liner with adjustable dial allows for a customized fit with moisture control and is replaceable should one need to freshen up a bit. 

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Bosch GKS 190 Circular Saw Review

Bosch GKS 190 Circular Saw Review - Intro

I bought this saw from my local builders merchants. . . Jewson I think. . . and it was a good little saw for what I needed it for. I pushed this thing to its limits and is coped just fine. There are bigger more powerful saws around I am sure, and if you need to cut more than about 3" / 60mm thickness stuff then perhaps a bigger saw is what is required.

Bosch GKS 190 Circular Saw Review - In Use 

I was cutting 7" x 3" timber down the grain, this is slightly more than the maximum cut depth, and so I had to flip the timber and run the saw down the other side too. I did a whole pile of the timbers, and the saw although a little slow was not tedious to use.

Across the grain it cuts like an animal. Pretty much as quick as you could want. The saw comes with all the usual guides etc. If you are using the saw to cut along a line without the guide (which might be bad practice?) there is no slot in the rest plate that allows you to follow the line, so you have to make a mark with a permanent maker, and use that the line the saw up. 

Bosch GKS 190 Circular Saw Review - Photos

The Safety Switch is Activated with the thumb.

The saw has the normal clamps etc. for angled cuts.

The saw is quite wide, which may hinder some.

Some facts and figures.

The cuts depth is around 3"

Underside of circular saw.

The balde despite being large toothed give a clean cut.

Bosch GKS 190 Circular Saw Review - Conclusion

A good saw which I have tested do so prolonged and demanding cuts, power wise excellent. A great saw to use.

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Cannot Start Outlook: ".pst is in use"

Cannot Start Outlook: ".pst is in use"

This is a message that popped up this morning, when I opened oulook. Fixt it:

1. Your .pst file is corrupted.
2. Your .pst file is in use by another program.

1 - Your .pst file is corrupted.

There are plenty of good guides on how to repair your .pst file:

Guide for repair of outlook .pst file. 

This can also help if outlook fails to index.

2 - Your .pst file is in use by another program.

After a few years of use a .pst file can become very large. Mine is currently at 9.0GB. This means that a backup / sync programs such as syncbac, can take several minutes to backup / sync the .pst file.

During this time you will receive the error message ".pst file in use", if you open outlook. 

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Using a 3 Speed Switch on an EBike

Using a 3 Speed Switch on an EBike - Intro

When using an EBike normally the speed is controlled by:

• Pedaling (with assistance from the motor)
• Use of Throttle

So why would you require a 3 speed switch to control the speed as well? 

Using a 3 Speed Switch on an EBike - Types of 3 Speed Switch

There are lots of different types of 3 speed switch available, the most simple is shown below. 

Some are slightly more complex . . . 

The above model incorporates a "walk" mode and also  power level indicator for batteries. 

Using a 3 Speed Switch on an EBike - Why Use One?

When using pedal sensors the speed switch can be used to control the amount of exertion put in by the rider, over a certain speed you will have to do the work . . so you:

1. Get more exercise
2. Use less battery

On a bike with a throttle, the reasons are a little more complex. There are two main reasons for having one . . . 

1 - Helps control speed.

If you have ever tried to travel across rough ground whilst holding a throttle in a half open position, you will know that generally your hand wiggles around, cause the throttle to move and the bike to surge forward occasionally, because your wobbly hand is moving the throttle. 

By using a three speed switch you can set the speed at a low speed, and fully open the throttle. This makes for a smoother low speed experience on rough ground. 

This is also useful for kids, as you can limit the maximum speed they can use. 

If you find that the motor pulls the bike along at a speed which is too fast for you to pedal, then a switch can be used to slow the bike down to a speed where you can provide useful pedal assistance. Installing a cheap switch is easier and cheaper than changing the gearing of a bike. 

2 - May limit peak wattage and protect motor in steep climbs.

This reason depends on the controller you have installed, but the premise holds true for most controllers that allow for connection of a 3 speed switch. 

When you choose a lower speed, you are selecting a lower voltage, for example a 48v controller in low speed may deliver 24v.

All controllers have a maximum current that is supported. My controller for example has a 15 amp upper limit. So in low speed I have restricted my motor to 360w. And so in a steep climb using maximum amps, and therefore maintaining maximum torque there is a reduced chance of overheating the motor. 

This is of use when non technically minded people are riding an e bike in a hilly area. "You need to be on speed setting 1" for example is a lot easier than saying "third throttle ".

Questions I do not know the answer to:

When normally entering a steep hill at full speed, the bike will slow down as it climbs the hill. Without using a speed controller what is happening inside the motor? 

Are 48 volts and up to 720w trying to turn the motor, with non movement resulting in buildup of heat?

or

Does the controller adjust the voltage according to speed, ignoring throttle position, so as to reduce wattage, and reduce chance of overheating?

If you would like to learn more about the relationship between torque, amps and wattage < read this. 

Using a 3 Speed Switch on an EBike - Do they work on any ebike.

It is not the bike, that is important, but the controller. Look at the controller's wiring diagram. . . is there a connector labelled for "3 speed switch" or "speed switch"? If yes there is a good chance you will be able to use one.

The 3 speed switch that I purchased, worked fine with one controller but not with another.  

Using a 3 Speed Switch on an EBike - Notes 

It is worth noting that is you have an e bike that goes 15mph, the 3 speed settings will result in the following speeds:

1. 17.5mph
2. 15.0mph
3. 12.0mph

So you have to be careful that installing a switch pushes you over your max allowable speed for road use. In my case I uninstalled my switch because in the high speed setting it made the bike illegal.

Using a 3 Speed Switch on an EBike - Conclusion

Part of me thinks that these switches are surplus to requirements, they serve no real purpose because the bikes speed can be controlled via the throttle.

BUT they do add in a extra option for controllability of the bike at a very low cost. 

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